1. I believe both types of adapters are interchangeable but one has more contacts in use. Another possibility, if you have not wiped Windows and re-installed, is that the presets for the output are not compatible with your monitor. Try booting into Windows safe mode by continuously tapping F8 at startRead more

    I believe both types of adapters are interchangeable but one has more contacts in use.

    Another possibility, if you have not wiped Windows and re-installed, is that the presets for the output are not compatible with your monitor. Try booting into Windows safe mode by continuously tapping F8 at start up. If you see something one the screen then, change the display type to VGA and reboot.

    See less
    • 0
  2. Here is a very simple thing to try:In case the particular key(s) are stuck from either a sticky liquid, sticky fingers, or an impact that has caused the plastic of the key to spread and rub, try using a Q-Tip with a small amount of quality rubbing alcohol on it and clean around the edges of the partRead more

    Here is a very simple thing to try:
    In case the particular key(s) are stuck from either a sticky liquid, sticky fingers, or an impact that has caused the plastic of the key to spread and rub, try using a Q-Tip with a small amount of quality rubbing alcohol on it and clean around the edges of the particular key(s) and look closely to see that there is a small space all the way around the key(s), especially on the flatter ‘chicklet’ keys common on laptops.

    You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.

    See less
    • 0
  3. Best quick fix is to borrow a camera pronto. Little chance this problem can be fixed by pressing buttons as it is almost certainly a hardware fault and needs repairing.Vague chance of it being due charger, or battery (check terminals) but from what you say I doubt it.Google your subject line - thereRead more

    Best quick fix is to borrow a camera pronto. Little chance this problem can be fixed by pressing buttons as it is almost certainly a hardware fault and needs repairing.

    Vague chance of it being due charger, or battery (check terminals) but from what you say I doubt it.

    Google your subject line – there are many hits.

    Always pop back and let us know the outcome – thanks

    message edited by Derek

    See less
    • -5
  4. You might also try clearing the print spooler, see here:http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorial...MIKEhttp://www.skeptic.com/

    You might also try clearing the print spooler, see here:

    http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorial…

    MIKE

    http://www.skeptic.com/

    See less
    • 0
  5. Let's say you have:C:\GoogleChromePortableand in there you have GoogleChromePortable.exe, your .bat file, and a folder named docs with an index.html file inside.Your .bat file would then look like: @echo offstart GoogleChromePortable.exe --kiosk %cd%\docs\index.htmlAs to your second question - %CD%Read more

    Let’s say you have:
    C:\GoogleChromePortable
    and in there you have GoogleChromePortable.exe, your .bat file, and a folder named docs with an index.html file inside.

    Your .bat file would then look like:
    @echo off
    start GoogleChromePortable.exe –kiosk %cd%\docs\index.html

    As to your second question – %CD% is a variable representing your current working directory. So in my example above %CD=C:\GoogleChromePortable. You can test this yourself by adding two lines to the start of your bat:

    @echo off
    echo %cd%
    pause
    start GoogleChromePortable.exe –kiosk %cd%\docs\index.html

    I hope that’s helpful 🙂

    See less
    • 0
  6. If your host frequency is 100MHz, your CPU is NOT running at 3.0GHz....it's probably running at 1.5GHz. The host frequency should be 200MHz (800MHz FSB) & depending on what your board supports, you should be running either DDR400 or DDR2-533 RAM. The CPU running at 1/2 speed would explain part oRead more

    If your host frequency is 100MHz, your CPU is NOT running at 3.0GHz….it’s probably running at 1.5GHz. The host frequency should be 200MHz (800MHz FSB) & depending on what your board supports, you should be running either DDR400 or DDR2-533 RAM.

    The CPU running at 1/2 speed would explain part of your gaming problems but you also need a decent video card. Unfortunately, you didn’t state which video you’re using. If you’re using the onboard, it wouldn’t matter how fast your CPU is or how much RAM you have, gaming performance will still suck.

    Try running CPUZ to check your CPU & memory settings & report back what you find:

    http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

    See less
    • 0
  7. Finally!!!! A SOLUTION!!!!!!!!!!After going back-and-forth with Canon's Tech support, here's what happened...They suggested I buy a new replacement ink pad from their parts department, which I thought more than fair. With it would be the hardware reset hardware to reset the error..I talked to the paRead more

    Finally!!!! A SOLUTION!!!!!!!!!!

    After going back-and-forth with Canon’s Tech support, here’s what happened…
    They suggested I buy a new replacement ink pad from their parts department, which I thought more than fair. With it would be the hardware reset hardware to reset the error..

    I talked to the parts department..
    Unfortunately, the MP280 was the ONLY Pixma they didn’t carry replacement ink absorbers… They were out of them. They transferred me to the Sales department where I would get a ‘significant’ discount on a new printer…

    I talked to a sales manager and, although my printer was 6+ months out of warranty, CANON sent me a new printer, overnight, and I’m sending them back the MP280.
    CANON treated me well, and in the end, because, although my printer was relatively new (less than 2 years) they honored the warranty after the expiration date.

    I’ve used CANON printers for many years, and although this was not a “fun” experience, they came through in the end..

    Advice to others… DO NOT – EVER – GO TO ONE OF THOSE P07 REPAIR DOWNLOAD SITES… Your computer will get hacked!!!

    Other than that, CANON treated me more than fairly and I now have a brand new Pixma MG3500…

    See less
    • 0
  8. The "no signal" error should be fairly obvious. The monitor isn't receiving a video signal, that means the problem is with something within the computer. Could be the graphics card, motherboard, CPU, power supply, etc.The high speed fan indicates the CPU is overheating. The system is trying to lowerRead more

    The “no signal” error should be fairly obvious. The monitor isn’t receiving a video signal, that means the problem is with something within the computer. Could be the graphics card, motherboard, CPU, power supply, etc.

    The high speed fan indicates the CPU is overheating. The system is trying to lower the CPU temp by increasing the fan speed. You can’t tell if it’s overheating by “feel”, you need to run a temp monitoring program or check the BIOS. Unfortunately, if you can’t get a display, you can’t check the temp.

    You didn’t list any specs but since your system has 10GB RAM, is running Win8, & has a monitor, it’s most likely a relatively new desktop. Is it a custom build or store bought? What’s the make/model? Did you do anything inside the case that may have brought this problem on? Did you do any cleaning, install RAM, mess with the CPU heatsink, etc?

    You also posted in the wrong forum, this should be in hardware.

    See less
    • 0
  9. stiefler182Powerline Adapters do not use wifi (wireless) between each other, they use the domestic power wiring instead of an Ethernet cable. If they are too far apart that could pose a problem because of loss or interference in the wiring. See this:http://www.techradar.com/news/netwo...Always pop bRead more

    stiefler182

    Powerline Adapters do not use wifi (wireless) between each other, they use the domestic power wiring instead of an Ethernet cable. If they are too far apart that could pose a problem because of loss or interference in the wiring. See this:
    http://www.techradar.com/news/netwo…

    Always pop back and let us know the outcome – thanks

    message edited by Derek

    See less
    • 0
  10. ASRock N68C-S UCC http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.h...NVIDIA® GeForce 7025 / nForce 630aonboard videoAM2+ mboard.Can use AM3 cpusYour 450 watt PS probably has more than enough capacity to handle your mboard if you use the onboard video, but are you using a video card in a slot ?If you ARE....YourRead more

    ASRock N68C-S UCC
    http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.h…

    NVIDIA® GeForce 7025 / nForce 630a

    onboard video

    AM2+ mboard.
    Can use AM3 cpus

    Your 450 watt PS probably has more than enough capacity to handle your mboard if you use the onboard video, but are you using a video card in a slot ?

    If you ARE….

    Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
    (Onboard video – video built into the mboard – IS NOT A CARD ! )
    If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker’s web site and look up the specs for the model – often under system requirements – the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don’t find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings – in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

    If you’re a gamer…
    In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It’s recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.
    ……..

    It is easy to test for incompatible ram that has caused your mboard to fail to boot.

    Make sure you have a speaker or speakers or the equivalent connected to the mboard so you can hear mboard beeps (see your mboard manual if you need to).
    Remove the AC power to the case/power supply.
    Remove all the ram.
    Restore AC power.
    Try to boot.
    If nothing else is wrong, you will get no video but you will hear a pattern of beeps that indicate no ram is installed, or a ram problem.
    E.g. for an Award bios or a bios based on one, that’s often a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, continuously.
    …..

    See less
    • 0