1. Could be the print head is blocked. See second response here:http://www.fixya.com/support/t13282...Always pop back and let us know the outcome - thanks

    Could be the print head is blocked. See second response here:
    http://www.fixya.com/support/t13282…

    Always pop back and let us know the outcome – thanks

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  2. Is it possible that the TV just isn't capable of recognizing and reading drives that large? It's probably designed for smaller flash drives, have you tried one of those?

    Is it possible that the TV just isn’t capable of recognizing and reading drives that large? It’s probably designed for smaller flash drives, have you tried one of those?

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  3. Which one?HP Photosmart C4435 All-in-One PrinterHP Photosmart C4440 All-in-One PrinterHP Photosmart C4450 All-in-One PrinterHP Photosmart C4472 All-in-One PrinterHP Photosmart C4473 All-in-One PrinterHP Photosmart C4480 All-in-One PrinterHP Photosmart C4483 All-in-One PrinterHP Photosmart C4485 All-Read more

    Which one?

    HP Photosmart C4435 All-in-One Printer
    HP Photosmart C4440 All-in-One Printer
    HP Photosmart C4450 All-in-One Printer
    HP Photosmart C4472 All-in-One Printer
    HP Photosmart C4473 All-in-One Printer
    HP Photosmart C4480 All-in-One Printer
    HP Photosmart C4483 All-in-One Printer
    HP Photosmart C4485 All-in-One Printer
    HP Photosmart C4488 All-in-One Printer

    Printer doesn’t appear to have WiFi built in:
    http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/ca/e…

    …but if your laptop has WiFi, and you have a WiFi router or gateway for your Internet service, you can hook the printer up to the PC, then share it out over the network, through your router or gateway to the laptop.

    Another option is to get a USB or WiFi print server, and share the printer over the network via the print server.

    Just another stupid saying…

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  4. What do you mean by reserve areas? The stated manufacturer's size is the "raw" size. Some of that capacity is used up when the drive is partitioned and formatted. The manufacturer's stated size is often expressed in decimal gigabtes rather than binary gigabytes which are what most if not all biosesRead more

    What do you mean by reserve areas?
    The stated manufacturer’s size is the “raw” size. Some of that capacity is used up when the drive is partitioned and formatted.
    The manufacturer’s stated size is often expressed in decimal gigabtes rather than binary gigabytes which are what most if not all bioses and all operating system use (at least, they always do that with hard drive sizes). It often isn’t exactly decimal xgb – that varies a bit, fractionally, usually upwards.

    E.g.

    I have a Kingston Traveler “2gb” flash drive, it’s FAT partitioned and formatted – the total space usable for data is 1.90gb (2,047,803,392 bytes) binary.

    I have a Kingston Traveler “4gb” flash drive, it’s FAT32 partitioned and formatted – the total usable space for data is 3.72gb (4,000,825,324 bytes) binary.

    Similar applies to memory cards.

    1 decimal gb = 1,000,000,000 bytes = 1 billion bytes
    1 binary gb = 1,073,741,824 bytes = 1,024 bytes / kb x 1,024 kb / mb x 1,024 mb / gb
    2 binary gb = 2,147,438,648 bytes
    etc.

    ~500gb decimal = ~465.66gb binary

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  5. If you have no floppy drive built in, or in any case, there is another simpler way. (Most USB connected floppy drive models are not detected by XP's Setup - it has to be one of a few models available when XP was first released, none of which are being made these days, or one of a very few other modeRead more

    If you have no floppy drive built in, or in any case, there is another simpler way. (Most USB connected floppy drive models are not detected by XP’s Setup – it has to be one of a few models available when XP was first released, none of which are being made these days, or one of a very few other models. 2000 and XP’s Setup won’t recognize files on flash drives, external drives, or CD/DVD drives during the early part of Setup as valid for the location of SATA controller drivers.)
    Go into the bios Setup and find a setting for the SATA controller(s) or similar where you can set it’s mode to IDE compatible or similar, or SATA (or AHCI) – it’s presently set to SATA (or AHCI) – set that to IDE compatible or similar, Save bios settings.

    XP’s Setup will then detect the SATA drive (as an IDE compatible drive) no problem, if the SATA drive is detected properly.

    However, if your regular XP CD or the equivalent does not have at least SP1 updates built in, it won’t recognize a drive larger than 137gb manufacturer’s decimal size = 128gb binary in Windows and the mboard’s bios as it’s full size, in Windows.
    When Setup runs with such a disk, any drive larger than 137gb manufacturer’s size / 128gb in the bios and in Windows will be seen by Setup as ~128gb or ~131072 mb

    If you see that, you must make a bootable slipstreamed CD with the contents of your CD with the SP3 updates integrated to it. While you’re at it you might as well integrate the SATA controller drivers into it too. Use that to run Setup with rather than your own CD. The same Product Key will work.

    Regular Windows CDs have SP2 or SP3 printed on them if they include those updates. All the regular CDs with SP1 updates I’ve seen do NOT have SP1 printed on them, but the volume labels – the label you see in Windows for the CD – for CDs without SP1 updates are different from those with SP1 updates – you can look up the volume label on the web to determine which is the case.

    When Setup has finished, if you have loaded your Windows from a regular CD or the equivalent, rather than from a Recovery DVD or a set of Recovery disks for your specific model, load the specific drivers for your model including the SATA controller drivers. They are available in the downloads for your model on the brand name system’s web site.

    Whenever you load Windows from a regular Windows CD (or DVD) from scratch, after Setup is finished you must load the drivers for the mboard, particularly the main chipset drivers, in order for Windows to have the proper drivers for and information about your mboard hardware, including it’s AGP or PCI-E, ACPI, USB 2.0 if it has it, and hard drive controller support. If you have a generic system and have the CD that came with the mboard, all the necessary drivers are on it. If you load drivers from the web, brand name system builders and mboard makers often DO NOT have the main chipset drivers listed in the downloads for your model – in that case you must go to the maker of the main chipset’s web site, get the drivers, and load them.
    Load the main chipset drivers first.

    Then you can go back into the bios Setup, and set the SATA controller(s) or similar to SATA (or AHCI) mode, Save settings.

    ……..

    If you have loaded your Windows from a regular CD or the equivalent, rather than from a Recovery DVD or a set of Recovery disks for your specific model….

    If you Windows CD or the equivalent does not have any SP updates built in, you will have no USB 2.0 support until at least SP1 updates have been installed, and the main chipset drivers have been installed. USB 1.1support will already be present when Setup has finished.

    If Windows XP did not auto identify your network adapter, it will not have been able to Activate Windows in the final stages of Setup, and you will have no access to the internet until the network adapter drivers have been installed.

    See Response 11 in this:
    https://computing.net/answers/wi…

    Scroll down to:
    If Windows 7 did not auto identify your network adapter, ….
    (the same applies)
    ………

    If you are connecting to the internet wirelessly, only, see the Wireless Network connection info at end of that Response.

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  6. Check connecting cable plug tightness at each end (laptop and screen). Also slowly move the lid down towards closed and see if anything changes on the screen. If it does the cable is probably faulty at the hinge.If it comes to it here is a video about screen replacement (not quite yours but should gRead more

    Check connecting cable plug tightness at each end (laptop and screen). Also slowly move the lid down towards closed and see if anything changes on the screen. If it does the cable is probably faulty at the hinge.

    If it comes to it here is a video about screen replacement (not quite yours but should give the general idea).
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DL…

    Use Google to find a replacement.

    Always pop back and let us know the outcome – thanks

    message edited by Derek

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  7. If the screen is jumbled when installing from the CD then it probably is not the fault of the hard drive. Sounds more like a defective video card/chip. I suppose a power supply that is feeding the wrong voltages could cause problems like that also. If the computer does that when it is totally cooledRead more

    If the screen is jumbled when installing from the CD then it probably is not the fault of the hard drive. Sounds more like a defective video card/chip.
    I suppose a power supply that is feeding the wrong voltages could cause problems like that also.

    If the computer does that when it is totally cooled off then that should eliminate overheating. Although a defective CPU cooling fan or improperly installed heat sink could allow almost immediate overheating.

    Open the case and first look for axcessive dirt/dust that could impair the fans and the cooling. Then try starting and see if the fans are all rotating as they should, especially the CPU fan.

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  8. When you do a bios upgrade the bios settings are often reset to default. So if, for example, you had added a LAN card and had the onboard one disabled the upgrade may have re-enabled the onboard. The same is true if you added a video card. Anyway, you may want to go into bios setup and make sure allRead more

    When you do a bios upgrade the bios settings are often reset to default. So if, for example, you had added a LAN card and had the onboard one disabled the upgrade may have re-enabled the onboard. The same is true if you added a video card.
    Anyway, you may want to go into bios setup and make sure all the settings are the way you want them to be.

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  9. Whats your budget? First upgrade to dedicated graphics. And you will need to upgrade the 220W power supply to at least 400W.

    Whats your budget?
    First upgrade to dedicated graphics.
    And you will need to upgrade the 220W power supply to at least 400W.

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  10. Have you tried to enter Windows safe mode, or setup when first starting the computer? You need to start tapping keys immediately after starting. Are the same lights on the keyboard when you first start the computer? Have you tried another keyboard? You could try clearing the CMOS by using the clrcmoRead more

    Have you tried to enter Windows safe mode, or setup when first starting the computer? You need to start tapping keys immediately after starting.
    Are the same lights on the keyboard when you first start the computer?

    Have you tried another keyboard?

    You could try clearing the CMOS by using the clrcmos jumper, or removing the coin battery while the computer is unplugged.

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