1. You didn't get a drivers disc with the cam?http://www.mypixxo.com/support/driv...

    You didn’t get a drivers disc with the cam?

    http://www.mypixxo.com/support/driv…

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  2. Could be the backlight/invertor cutting out (depends if it's pre LED backlit). Could be the graphics chip. If you can see a dark, faint display on the screen, then it seems it may be the backlight.Does it maybe flash back on if you tap lightly at the back of the keyboard, near the bottom of the screRead more

    Could be the backlight/invertor cutting out (depends if it’s pre LED backlit). Could be the graphics chip.

    If you can see a dark, faint display on the screen, then it seems it may be the backlight.

    Does it maybe flash back on if you tap lightly at the back of the keyboard, near the bottom of the screen, or on the plastic bezel at the bottom of the screen (DON’T TAP THE SCREEN ITSELF)?
    How ’bout toggling the Fn and designated screen on/off key (F8 ?)

    As a process of elimination, via the VGA (HDMI if fitted) sockets, try plugging the laptop into an external monitor or TV. If the display shows up, then the graphics chip is ok.

    If it’s a backlight prob, then it could the light itself, the invertor (if pre-LED backlit), or hopefully just a plug worked loose.

    See how the elimination process goes…

    You need to be pretty careful/confident to strip it down to check. Otherwise could be a job for your local PC guy.

    Service manual for the CQ45, here, may give an indication in there of dismantling procedures.
    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc…;

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  3. Note that a 32 bit client OS (such as XP, Vista, WIndows 7) will not recognize more than 4 GB RAM, of which about 3 GB will be usable. The only way to go above 4GB is to install a 64 bit OS.

    Note that a 32 bit client OS (such as XP, Vista, WIndows 7) will not recognize more than 4 GB RAM, of which about 3 GB will be usable. The only way to go above 4GB is to install a 64 bit OS.

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  4. 1st of all, you don't have to remove the CMOS battery for an hour...you only have to remove it for a few seconds. Or better yet, use the ClearCMOS jumper. The trick is, the power cord MUST be unplugged. Hopefully you (or your brother) are familiar enough with the BIOS to be able to reconfigure the sRead more

    1st of all, you don’t have to remove the CMOS battery for an hour…you only have to remove it for a few seconds. Or better yet, use the ClearCMOS jumper. The trick is, the power cord MUST be unplugged. Hopefully you (or your brother) are familiar enough with the BIOS to be able to reconfigure the settings. You’ll most likely take a performance hit if you simply load the defaults.

    2nd, WinXP doesn’t natively support SATA drives & won’t recognize the HDD unless you do one of 3 things:

    1. enter the BIOS & change the SATA controller setting from ACHI to IDE mode. Then once XP is installed, you can install the SATA drivers, then go back into the BIOS & re-enable ACHI
    2. if that’s not an option, you’ll need to load the SATA drivers from a floppy disk at the beginning of the XP installation by pressing F6 then following the instructions
    3. if you don’t have a floppy drive, you’ll have to create a new XP disk with the SATA drivers already slipstreamed into it. To do it, you’ll need a program called nLite.

    http://maxeasyguide.blogspot.com/20…

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  5. The problem seems to be solved. That is the good news In the end I was forced to professional help. They found that my brand new (high end) ENERMAX Revolution 1250 w PSU 85+ was at fault.It was not sending power to the HDDs nor Optical Drives. The 12 v system was fine and the fans, usb and graphicsRead more

    The problem seems to be solved. That is the good news
    In the end I was forced to professional help.
    They found that my brand new (high end) ENERMAX Revolution 1250 w PSU 85+ was at fault.It was not sending power to the HDDs nor Optical Drives. The 12 v system was fine and the fans, usb and graphics card per mobo were OK. The PSU green light also indicated all OK (red light supposedly on if faulty). Well you can be led up the garden path and what a path. Hours/days of misery and wasted time.
    Now the warranty round-about starts.

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  6. Intel Integrated Graphics does not meet the minimum system requirements. It won't run it Ever.

    Intel Integrated Graphics does not meet the minimum system requirements. It won’t run it Ever.

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  7. Thanks for the suggestion, daveincaps. I did charge the battery, to no avail. Finally, I called the local Nikon repair shop to see what might be done. I was asked to check the monitor for an error message, so turned the camera on, and damned if did not work!!! Boy, that repair shop works miracles ovRead more

    Thanks for the suggestion, daveincaps. I did charge the battery, to no avail. Finally, I called the local Nikon repair shop to see what might be done. I was asked to check the monitor for an error message, so turned the camera on, and damned if did not work!!! Boy, that repair shop works miracles over the phone. She suggested that a bit of grit might have gotten into the lens mechanism, preventing it from opening 100% so that the camera was waiting for it to open fully.

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  8. Generally, upgrading a laptop processor isn't cost effective, especially if you can't do it yourself. From what I could find, your laptop has an E-450 APU which was the best of the E-series. The socket type is Socket FT1 (aka BGA413) & the motherboard chipset is AMD A50M (aka Hudson M1). You'reRead more

    Generally, upgrading a laptop processor isn’t cost effective, especially if you can’t do it yourself. From what I could find, your laptop has an E-450 APU which was the best of the E-series. The socket type is Socket FT1 (aka BGA413) & the motherboard chipset is AMD A50M (aka Hudson M1). You’re going to have to do some searching to find out if any other processors are compatible.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_…

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  9. All we needed was the board, CPU & RAM.Gigabyte 8IPE1000MKCeleron D 320 - 2.40GHz @ 533MHz FSB2GB DDR333http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products...Your RAM is gonna hold you back. Go to the Frequency/Voltage Control menu:- set the CPU Host Clock Control to enabled- lock the AGP/PCI/SRC Fixed at 66/33Read more

    All we needed was the board, CPU & RAM.

    Gigabyte 8IPE1000MK
    Celeron D 320 – 2.40GHz @ 533MHz FSB
    2GB DDR333

    http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products…

    Your RAM is gonna hold you back. Go to the Frequency/Voltage Control menu:

    – set the CPU Host Clock Control to enabled
    – lock the AGP/PCI/SRC Fixed at 66/33/100
    – set the “Memory Frequency For 533MHz FSB” to 2.5. This will give the optimal CPU:DRAM ratio, but it may also cause the RAM to limit the overclock. If you set it to 2.0, the CPU:DRAM ratio won’t be ideal, but it will remove the RAM as the limiting factor.
    – begin raising the CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) 10MHz at a time. Save your settings, reboot & test for stability. If all is well, add another 10MHz.
    – unfortunately there are no voltage adjustments so I don’t know how far you’ll get. 3.6GHz is possible with the right board & DDR400.

    http://download.gigabyte.us/FileLis…

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  10. I assume you realize that to change to an Intel CPU, you'd have to buy a new motherboard, possibly new RAM, & reinstall Windows? I believe your motherboard model is M2N68-AM:http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AM...You don't need a dual core for web browsing. Do you do anything that requires a multRead more

    I assume you realize that to change to an Intel CPU, you’d have to buy a new motherboard, possibly new RAM, & reinstall Windows? I believe your motherboard model is M2N68-AM:

    http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AM…

    You don’t need a dual core for web browsing. Do you do anything that requires a multi-core CPU? If not, I doubt you could tell the difference between single vs dual vs quad. As for it being faster than a “dual core 2.8”, you didn’t tell us which one – Pentium D, Celeron, Pentium Dual, Core 2 Duo, etc. Intel makes several dual core CPUs that run at 2.8GHz.

    http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_loo…

    The Sempron 145 is actually a dual core CPU with one of the cores disabled. It’s cheap (about $35-40 US), it’s highly overclockable (will easily do 3.2GHz+), plus with the right motherboard, the other core can be re-enabled turning it into a dual core.

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