xml is always tedious/difficult/frustrating to process using batch, but here goeth the treacherous and futile assault thereon:@echo off & setlocal enabledelayedexpansionfor /f "tokens=*" %%a in ('findstr /i "head ip=" test.xml') do (set z=%%aset z=!z:^<head ip=!:get rid of the equals signsetRead more
xml is always tedious/difficult/frustrating to process using batch, but here goeth the treacherous and futile assault thereon:
@echo off & setlocal enabledelayedexpansion for /f “tokens=*” %%a in (‘findstr /i “head ip=” test.xml’) do ( set z=%%a set z=!z:^<head ip=! :get rid of the equals sign set z!z! set z=!z: /^>=! call :readxml !z! ) goto :eof :readxml echo in xml… for %%a in (%1) do set test=%%~a echo %test% :end
Presumably you have powered cycled the router? Can you also check if the power/ac-adapter is delivering correct volts? These little plug in power modules fail more often than many realise...On most routers this either a single led that indicates the (a)dsl signal is present - and this will flash (tyRead more
Presumably you have powered cycled the router? Can you also check if the power/ac-adapter is delivering correct volts? These little plug in power modules fail more often than many realise…
On most routers this either a single led that indicates the (a)dsl signal is present – and this will flash (typically orange) when powering up and awaiting the handshake to say the account is established (PPoE) – when it will stablise (and possibly change colour from typically to green or blue) On others there may be two lights – one for the (a)dsl signal being present, and another when the handshake/PPoE is established… Usually the leds are green when things are established; or sometime even blue…?
I can’t find on UK or USA sites a DSL 2780; can find a DSL 2680…
Presuming yours is similar to that model (if not that model…) then second from the right on the front is an led that indicates the handshake/PPoE has been established (steady green if OK; steady red if not). Third from the right is the (a)dsl led; steady green means it’s there; flashing means it’s looking for it and not yet found it or synchronised).
If the adsl signal isn’t there – i.e. the led is flashing/not steady… – there “may” be a problem with the incoming signal. It could be the cable from the wall point to the router (test cable by substitution?); could be actual wall point itself (the Master Socket – though not that common a failure…); could be the actual point of entry to your home – connections within the Master Socket (not that common); or outside where ever it arrives to enter the property (quite a common problem). If your service is over copper (phone wires…) do you have a working land-line phone connection even though the (a)dsl isn’t working? If no phone (and usually it is there when your (a)dsl is working…) you have problem with the incoming line – and likely outside… Typical issue is corrosion on the terminals “outside” of your property – either just where arrives at your property; or in the street cabinet; or on the pole that serves your property….
It may be as simple… as “a failed router…” They do die as/when. I have had two from SKY in the UK go down; or more accurately one died totally, the other its ac-adapter died (lost volts…). To check your router either take your router to another premises where you can simply plug it into known working service… If the (a)dsl led flashes etc. – likely the router is OK – it won’t establish the handshake of course as it won’t be on your service/account. Similarly borrow another known good router; plug it into your service and see if it detects the incoming signal… Perhaps even try to enter your account details to login properly to your account?
My money initially is on the router or its ac-adapter…; pending what leds show and if the power on self-test routine shows not all is well. Do you have the manual and if so have you read through the sections that deal with what the leds show; how it powers up and so on?
I note that TalkTalk in the UK use this router; are you in the UK and with Talk Talk? And as there doesn’t appear to be a manual around for this model, it inclines me to wonder if it’s one badged/tweaked by D-link for TalkTalk…? Presuming you are with TalkTalk… have you had a chat with their support? I have a colleague who is with them; have to say he isn’t too impressed overall and when his contract runs out he “will” be switching to another isp. But it wouldn’t hurt to check withyour isp; especially if “they” provided the router…
Are you testing this on a computer external to your network? It won't work otherwise. Sorry I didn't think of this earlier.If you are testing internally that explains why it is not working. If that is the case, your original configuration was probably correct all along.Port forwarding will only workRead more
Are you testing this on a computer external to your network? It won’t work otherwise. Sorry I didn’t think of this earlier.
If you are testing internally that explains why it is not working. If that is the case, your original configuration was probably correct all along.
Port forwarding will only work when you access your router from the Internet, not from your internal network. I hope it’s as simple as that.
The first, and most important cosideration with doing a cable run is total length of the cable. Maximum segment length for a Cat 6 (I wouldn't bother with 5e if you go this route) is 100 meters. I wouldn't exceed 80 m as in my own experience, you can start having attenuation isses at lengths exceediRead more
The first, and most important cosideration with doing a cable run is total length of the cable. Maximum segment length for a Cat 6 (I wouldn’t bother with 5e if you go this route) is 100 meters. I wouldn’t exceed 80 m as in my own experience, you can start having attenuation isses at lengths exceeding 80 m. It gets worse if you’re running the cable near anything that can cause interferance.
Now, I’ve run a lot of cable in my time and I always prefer a wired solution over a wireless one so if it were me, I’d pull wire. However, instead of running through buildings, I’d dig a trench and use some 1.5″ diameter PVC type pipe and I’d pull several cables instead of just one. But that’s me. I’d rather have it buried 6′ deep and not have to worry about the cable being cut accidentally.
Your solution will work and if you are approaching 80 m in total length of the run, you could always put a small switch in the other building you’d be running through. This would act as a repeater and give you two shorter cable runs to deal with.
If you go with a wired solution you’ll want to know the best way to interconnect the two routers. For more information on how to do that simply click on my name above in this response and read my “how-to” guide titled, “Add a second Router to your LAN”
In your case I would recommend using version 1 wherein you interconnect the two routers LAN port to LAN port.
Having said all that, I originally mentioned using two wireless point-to-point antennas because they’re relatively easy to setup. They’re as simple to aim as pointing your finger, and if you buy the right ones, easy to configure, install and are reliable. I’ve worked with EnGenius equipment in the past and I would use this before going with a wired solution as the wired solution, no matter whether you run through existing buildings leaving exposed cable outside between buildings….or you use the method I would and bury it….wired is going to be a lot more work to install.
It matters not how straight the gate, How charged with punishments the scroll, I am the master of my fate; I am the captain of my soul.
There are two possible models. M2, which is USB 2.0 and M3 which is USB 3.0. The M3 requires more power, which is the reason for the double USB connection. See the link below to determine which you have. The case color accents are different.There is also a support link there to deal with specific isRead more
There are two possible models. M2, which is USB 2.0 and M3 which is USB 3.0. The M3 requires more power, which is the reason for the double USB connection. See the link below to determine which you have. The case color accents are different.
There is also a support link there to deal with specific issues.
As I stated above, IF all else fails you should be able to repair the partition, or recover data after a quick format, assuming you did not use their software, which can encrypt the data.
I suggest you try their support process first. 2.5″ USB powered externals are more problematic than AC powered 3.5″ models. Also, External drives MUST be properly removed, or corruption may occur.
If you have NOT recently- flashed the bios- removed the battery from a desktop mboard and replaced it the right way, with the + showing- cleared cmos by moving a jumper on a desktop mboard then movng it backthen yes, the Cmos battery is either dead or too weak, or if you have a desktop computer, itRead more
If you have NOT recently – flashed the bios – removed the battery from a desktop mboard and replaced it the right way, with the + showing – cleared cmos by moving a jumper on a desktop mboard then movng it back
then yes, the Cmos battery is either dead or too weak, or if you have a desktop computer, it has poor connection in it’s socket – one connection contact is bent and is not touching the battery, or there is corrosion in the socket.
Do you have a desktop computer, or a laptop or netbook computer? It’s easy to replace the battery on a desktop computer. It’s usually a coin shaped shiny chrome or similar plated round button cell in a socket on the mboard. Replace it with the same type, or a clone of it. When it’s installed you must have the + on the battery showing. If it’s a laptop or netbook computer, HP has Maintenance manuals for most of their laptop and netbook computers available for the model or model series that you can look at online or download. In that it will show you where the cmos battery is and how to remove and install it. Once you have un-installed it or have read it’s label you can use it’s part number to search on the web for the proper replacement cmos battery. NOTE that sometimes the battery is soldered to mboard. Or – you could go here and look up which part number your Cmos battery has: http://partsurfer.hp.com/search.aspx …….
If you HAVE recently
– flashed the bios – the message is normal, after you have rebooted after flashing – if you DO NOT also see Boot Block Bios or similar – go into the bios, set the date and time, save bios settings, and you should not get the message while booting again.
– removed the battery from a desktop mboard, if you replaced it the wrong way, with the + NOT showing when it’s installed, you merely have to flip the battery over in it’s socket, then you can go into the bios, set the date and time, save bios settings, and you should not get the message while booting again. If you still get the message, the Cmos battery is either dead or too weak, or if you have a desktop computer, it has poor connection in it’s socket – one connection contact is bent and is not touching the battery, or there is corrosion in the socket.
– cleared cmos by moving a jumper on a desktop mboard then movng it back, then rthe message is normal the next time you boot the computer. Go into the bios, set the date and time, save bios settings, and you should not get the message while booting again. ……..
If you see CMOS/GPNV CHECKSUM bad etc. AND Boot Block Bios, or similar, then you must have attempted to flash the bios and the flash has FAILED. You MAY be able to recover from that situation, if you use the RIGHT bios update, and you flash the bios the RIGHT way, by following a specific Recovery procedure.
You forgot the underbars: The Procedure entry point _AIL_set_stream_volume_levels@12 could not be located in the dynamic link library mss32.dllEnter it into Google along with the name of the game.
You forgot the underbars: The Procedure entry point _AIL_set_stream_volume_levelstest45418123 could not be located in the dynamic link library mss32.dll
Enter it into Google along with the name of the game.
Try adding three new fields in your query. The first field would use the date field that already exists in your query to determine the week number.Copy and paste this to the 'Field' line to create a field named 'WeekNumber' (note that you will need to enter a table and field name of your date field)Read more
Try adding three new fields in your query. The first field would use the date field that already exists in your query to determine the week number.
Copy and paste this to the ‘Field’ line to create a field named ‘WeekNumber’ (note that you will need to enter a table and field name of your date field)
WeekNumber: Format([TableName]![FieldName],"ww")
Copy and paste this into the ‘Criteria’ line in the same column
Format(Date(),"ww")-1
The second field would need to identify the year for each record and filter down to only this year (because there is a 34th week every year 🙂 )
Copy and paste this to the ‘Field’ line to create a field named ‘Year’ (note that you will need to enter a table and field name of your date field)
Year: Year([TableName]![FieldName])
Copy and paste this into the ‘Criteria’ line in the same column
Year(Date())
The Last field will only select working days (Monday-Friday)
Copy and paste this to the ‘Field’ line to create a field named ‘Weekday’ (note that you will need to enter a table and field name of your date field)
Weekday: Weekday([TableName]![FieldName])
Copy and paste this into the ‘Criteria’ line in the same column
Between 2 And 6
Law of Logical Argument: Anything is possible if you don’t know what you’re talking about.
Solved Read Attribute Value From Xml Through Batch Script
xml is always tedious/difficult/frustrating to process using batch, but here goeth the treacherous and futile assault thereon:@echo off & setlocal enabledelayedexpansionfor /f "tokens=*" %%a in ('findstr /i "head ip=" test.xml') do (set z=%%aset z=!z:^<head ip=!:get rid of the equals signsetRead more
@echo off & setlocal enabledelayedexpansion
for /f “tokens=*” %%a in (‘findstr /i “head ip=” test.xml’) do (
set z=%%a
set z=!z:^<head ip=!
:get rid of the equals sign
set z!z!
set z=!z: /^>=!
call :readxml !z!
)
goto :eof
:readxml
echo in xml…
for %%a in (%1) do set test=%%~a
echo %test%
:end
No WAN Lights On D-Link Router – No Connection To Internet
Presumably you have powered cycled the router? Can you also check if the power/ac-adapter is delivering correct volts? These little plug in power modules fail more often than many realise...On most routers this either a single led that indicates the (a)dsl signal is present - and this will flash (tyRead more
On most routers this either a single led that indicates the (a)dsl signal is present – and this will flash (typically orange) when powering up and awaiting the handshake to say the account is established (PPoE) – when it will stablise (and possibly change colour from typically to green or blue) On others there may be two lights – one for the (a)dsl signal being present, and another when the handshake/PPoE is established… Usually the leds are green when things are established; or sometime even blue…?
I can’t find on UK or USA sites a DSL 2780; can find a DSL 2680…
Presuming yours is similar to that model (if not that model…) then second from the right on the front is an led that indicates the handshake/PPoE has been established (steady green if OK; steady red if not). Third from the right is the (a)dsl led; steady green means it’s there; flashing means it’s looking for it and not yet found it or synchronised).
If the adsl signal isn’t there – i.e. the led is flashing/not steady… – there “may” be a problem with the incoming signal. It could be the cable from the wall point to the router (test cable by substitution?); could be actual wall point itself (the Master Socket – though not that common a failure…); could be the actual point of entry to your home – connections within the Master Socket (not that common); or outside where ever it arrives to enter the property (quite a common problem). If your service is over copper (phone wires…) do you have a working land-line phone connection even though the (a)dsl isn’t working? If no phone (and usually it is there when your (a)dsl is working…) you have problem with the incoming line – and likely outside… Typical issue is corrosion on the terminals “outside” of your property – either just where arrives at your property; or in the street cabinet; or on the pole that serves your property….
It may be as simple… as “a failed router…” They do die as/when. I have had two from SKY in the UK go down; or more accurately one died totally, the other its ac-adapter died (lost volts…). To check your router either take your router to another premises where you can simply plug it into known working service… If the (a)dsl led flashes etc. – likely the router is OK – it won’t establish the handshake of course as it won’t be on your service/account. Similarly borrow another known good router; plug it into your service and see if it detects the incoming signal… Perhaps even try to enter your account details to login properly to your account?
My money initially is on the router or its ac-adapter…; pending what leds show and if the power on self-test routine shows not all is well. Do you have the manual and if so have you read through the sections that deal with what the leds show; how it powers up and so on?
I note that TalkTalk in the UK use this router; are you in the UK and with Talk Talk? And as there doesn’t appear to be a manual around for this model, it inclines me to wonder if it’s one badged/tweaked by D-link for TalkTalk…? Presuming you are with TalkTalk… have you had a chat with their support? I have a colleague who is with them; have to say he isn’t too impressed overall and when his contract runs out he “will” be switching to another isp. But it wouldn’t hurt to check withyour isp; especially if “they” provided the router…
message edited by trvlr
Solved Hostname Redirects To Router Config Page
Are you testing this on a computer external to your network? It won't work otherwise. Sorry I didn't think of this earlier.If you are testing internally that explains why it is not working. If that is the case, your original configuration was probably correct all along.Port forwarding will only workRead more
If you are testing internally that explains why it is not working. If that is the case, your original configuration was probably correct all along.
Port forwarding will only work when you access your router from the Internet, not from your internal network. I hope it’s as simple as that.
Solved Get Wifi Signal To House 200 FT Away Through Metal Building
The first, and most important cosideration with doing a cable run is total length of the cable. Maximum segment length for a Cat 6 (I wouldn't bother with 5e if you go this route) is 100 meters. I wouldn't exceed 80 m as in my own experience, you can start having attenuation isses at lengths exceediRead more
Now, I’ve run a lot of cable in my time and I always prefer a wired solution over a wireless one so if it were me, I’d pull wire. However, instead of running through buildings, I’d dig a trench and use some 1.5″ diameter PVC type pipe and I’d pull several cables instead of just one. But that’s me. I’d rather have it buried 6′ deep and not have to worry about the cable being cut accidentally.
Your solution will work and if you are approaching 80 m in total length of the run, you could always put a small switch in the other building you’d be running through. This would act as a repeater and give you two shorter cable runs to deal with.
If you go with a wired solution you’ll want to know the best way to interconnect the two routers. For more information on how to do that simply click on my name above in this response and read my “how-to” guide titled, “Add a second Router to your LAN”
In your case I would recommend using version 1 wherein you interconnect the two routers LAN port to LAN port.
Having said all that, I originally mentioned using two wireless point-to-point antennas because they’re relatively easy to setup. They’re as simple to aim as pointing your finger, and if you buy the right ones, easy to configure, install and are reliable. I’ve worked with EnGenius equipment in the past and I would use this before going with a wired solution as the wired solution, no matter whether you run through existing buildings leaving exposed cable outside between buildings….or you use the method I would and bury it….wired is going to be a lot more work to install.
It matters not how straight the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am the master of my fate;
I am the captain of my soul.
***William Henley***
Transcend External HDD Not Detected In My Computer Option
There are two possible models. M2, which is USB 2.0 and M3 which is USB 3.0. The M3 requires more power, which is the reason for the double USB connection. See the link below to determine which you have. The case color accents are different.There is also a support link there to deal with specific isRead more
There is also a support link there to deal with specific issues.
As I stated above, IF all else fails you should be able to repair the partition, or recover data after a quick format, assuming you did not use their software, which can encrypt the data.
I suggest you try their support process first. 2.5″ USB powered externals are more problematic than AC powered 3.5″ models. Also, External drives MUST be properly removed, or corruption may occur.
http://www.transcend-info.com/suppo…
N1996 Acer Manual
N1996 is not the model number, that's the "C-Tick" number. It means the board manufacturer is MSI. What LED are you asking about?
N1996 is not the model number, that’s the “C-Tick” number. It means the board manufacturer is MSI. What LED are you asking about?
CMOS/GPNV CHECKSUM Bad
If you have NOT recently- flashed the bios- removed the battery from a desktop mboard and replaced it the right way, with the + showing- cleared cmos by moving a jumper on a desktop mboard then movng it backthen yes, the Cmos battery is either dead or too weak, or if you have a desktop computer, itRead more
– flashed the bios
– removed the battery from a desktop mboard and replaced it the right way, with the + showing
– cleared cmos by moving a jumper on a desktop mboard then movng it back
then yes, the Cmos battery is either dead or too weak, or if you have a desktop computer, it has poor connection in it’s socket – one connection contact is bent and is not touching the battery, or there is corrosion in the socket.
Do you have a desktop computer, or a laptop or netbook computer?
It’s easy to replace the battery on a desktop computer. It’s usually a coin shaped shiny chrome or similar plated round button cell in a socket on the mboard. Replace it with the same type, or a clone of it. When it’s installed you must have the + on the battery showing.
If it’s a laptop or netbook computer, HP has Maintenance manuals for most of their laptop and netbook computers available for the model or model series that you can look at online or download. In that it will show you where the cmos battery is and how to remove and install it. Once you have un-installed it or have read it’s label you can use it’s part number to search on the web for the proper replacement cmos battery. NOTE that sometimes the battery is soldered to mboard.
Or – you could go here and look up which part number your Cmos battery has:
http://partsurfer.hp.com/search.aspx
…….
If you HAVE recently
– flashed the bios – the message is normal, after you have rebooted after flashing – if you DO NOT also see Boot Block Bios or similar – go into the bios, set the date and time, save bios settings, and you should not get the message while booting again.
– removed the battery from a desktop mboard, if you replaced it the wrong way, with the + NOT showing when it’s installed, you merely have to flip the battery over in it’s socket, then you can go into the bios, set the date and time, save bios settings, and you should not get the message while booting again.
If you still get the message, the Cmos battery is either dead or too weak, or if you have a desktop computer, it has poor connection in it’s socket – one connection contact is bent and is not touching the battery, or there is corrosion in the socket.
– cleared cmos by moving a jumper on a desktop mboard then movng it back, then rthe message is normal the next time you boot the computer. Go into the bios, set the date and time, save bios settings, and you should not get the message while booting again.
……..
If you see CMOS/GPNV CHECKSUM bad etc. AND Boot Block Bios, or similar, then you must have attempted to flash the bios and the flash has FAILED. You MAY be able to recover from that situation, if you use the RIGHT bios update, and you flash the bios the RIGHT way, by following a specific Recovery procedure.
The Procedure Entry Point Ail Set Sample Volume Levels@12 Co
You forgot the underbars: The Procedure entry point _AIL_set_stream_volume_levels@12 could not be located in the dynamic link library mss32.dllEnter it into Google along with the name of the game.
Enter it into Google along with the name of the game.
MS-DOS 6.0 Install Disks Free Download
There is no free and legal download for DOS 6. It was, and remains, a commercial OS.A free alternative to MSDOS is FreeDOS:http://www.freedos.org/
A free alternative to MSDOS is FreeDOS:
http://www.freedos.org/
Solved Getting ‘Last Week’s’ Data In Access
Try adding three new fields in your query. The first field would use the date field that already exists in your query to determine the week number.Copy and paste this to the 'Field' line to create a field named 'WeekNumber' (note that you will need to enter a table and field name of your date field)Read more
Copy and paste this to the ‘Field’ line to create a field named ‘WeekNumber’ (note that you will need to enter a table and field name of your date field)
Copy and paste this into the ‘Criteria’ line in the same column
The second field would need to identify the year for each record and filter down to only this year (because there is a 34th week every year 🙂 )
Copy and paste this to the ‘Field’ line to create a field named ‘Year’ (note that you will need to enter a table and field name of your date field)
Copy and paste this into the ‘Criteria’ line in the same column
The Last field will only select working days (Monday-Friday)
Copy and paste this to the ‘Field’ line to create a field named ‘Weekday’ (note that you will need to enter a table and field name of your date field)
Copy and paste this into the ‘Criteria’ line in the same column
Law of Logical Argument: Anything is possible if you don’t know what you’re talking about.