Snapfiles hosts a lot of freeware programs. This one jumped out, but there are no user reviews. The sites editor has given it 3 1/2 out of 5 stars:http://www.snapfiles.com/screenshot...I've never had a problem with snapfiles downloads and they warn if the software comes bundled with crapware.Here'sRead more
Snapfiles hosts a lot of freeware programs. This one jumped out, but there are no user reviews. The sites editor has given it 3 1/2 out of 5 stars:
Your CPU core temps are very high as are your GPU (Intel) onboard graphics, in fact I see one of your cores have throttled back due to these thermals. Your laptop is not a gaming rig and uses onboard graphics rather than a distinct graphics GPU and dedicated graphics memory. Most of your problem isRead more
Your CPU core temps are very high as are your GPU (Intel) onboard graphics, in fact I see one of your cores have throttled back due to these thermals. Your laptop is not a gaming rig and uses onboard graphics rather than a distinct graphics GPU and dedicated graphics memory. Most of your problem is your machine overheating. Try blowing out all of the vents with a can of compressed air to remove any build up of dust. Make sure that the laptop is on a hard smooth surface to allow cool air to be drawn in from the bottom and sides. Get a laptop cooling pad to allow more cool air to enter the machine. Lower the game settings to reduce the stress on the CPU and GPU and lower the temps during gaming. Make sure that there are absolutely the minimum amount of processes/programs running in the background while gaming will also help. Ultimately, getting a desktop gaming machine or even a gaming laptop would be the permanent fix but with a few cautions and adjustments you should be able to run your games at lower settings on your current machine.
You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.
Your subject title is NOT correct. Your laptop IS booting up, and the hard drive IS seen by the bios as being bootable and having an operating system installed on it, since you're seeing the Windows screens.Your problem is Windows is not working properly. ....You have data problems on your Windows pRead more
Your subject title is NOT correct.
Your laptop IS booting up, and the hard drive IS seen by the bios as being bootable and having an operating system installed on it, since you’re seeing the Windows screens.
Your problem is Windows is not working properly. ….
You have data problems on your Windows partition on your hard drive.
Either your hard drive is failing, or there’s nothing wrong with it but the data on it is corrupted. Laptop hard drives never have a warranty period longer than 3 years, and they are more easily damaged than desktop hard drives, e.g. if you dropped the laptop.
If you don’t have a floppy drive, you can get a CD image diagnostic utility from most hard drive manufacturer’s web sites, but obviously you would need to make a burned CD, preferably a CD-R for best compatibility, on another computer if you need to.
The bootable Dos versions of SeaTools can be used even if Windows is not working properly.
If the hard drive itself tests okay, any data problems found can be fixed, one way or another.
(Only the Windows version of SeaTools can test a hard drive that’s inside an external enclosure – an external hard drive.) ….
If the hard drive itself is okay, try running CHKDSK /R
If you can run it in Safe mode , do that.
Start – Run – type: cmd (click on OK or press Enter) Type: CHKDSK /R (press Enter) Answer Yes to the question. Restart the computer – CHKDSK / R will run at the beginning of Windows attempting to load normally the next time you boot the computer. Don’t press any keys while you see the text about CHKDSK wanting to run.
(When you don’t type a space and a drive letter along with a colon character after CHKDSK /R, it automatically checks the drive letter of the partition Windows is running from.)
If that’s successful, Windows will Restart automatically, then you see a message about CHKDSK, then if you’re fortunate Windows will load normally, fine. …..
If that’s not successful (CHKDSK did not finish running or would not run) …..
If you have an XP CD or can borrow one, boot the computer from it, load the Recovery Console, then run CHKDSK /R.
NOTE that most HP and Compaq computers that originally had XP on them came with a “Windows XP Home (or Pro) Re-installation CD” or similar when they were new. That CD can be used the same way as a Windows CD, but probably only for the computer model it came with, when it’s used for re-installing Windows from scratch or running a Repair installation of Windows procedure. You should be able to run CHKDSK from the Recovery Console of any full version XP CD (except, possibly, an XP Pro 64 bit CD – all other XP versions are 32 bit).
starting at, scroll down to “If that won’t work…..” …..
If you don’t have and can’t borrow an XP CD, remove your hard drive (disconnect tjhe AC adapter’s connection and the battery BEFORE you do that) and connect it to another computer that has Windows running on it, such that the way it’s connected and/or the Boot Order settings or similar in the bios Setup of the other computer are NOT booting that computer from your hard drive.
Note that if you connect it internally to a desktop computer, – you MUST disconnect the AC power to that computer whenever you are going to be plugging in or unplugging anything inside the case – a laptop SATA drive has the same SATA data socket and SATA power socket as a desktop SATA drive – it’s easy to connect to a desktop SATA header with the same SATA data cable and SATA power connector you use for a desktop drive – for a laptop IDE drive, the combo data/power connector header is smaller than the desktop IDE data only header on the hard drives. You can connect to a desktop IDE data cable and a desktop larger molex power connector if you use an inexpensive laptop IDE/power to desktop IDE/power gender adapter, available locally. The laptop drive is set to master by default if it has no tiny jumper on two of the four pins the laptop combo IDE/power connector does not connect to on one side – if there is another drive on the same IDE data cable, it’s jumper setting on back of the desktop IDE drive must be set to Slave, or just connect the laptop drive to a data cable by itself.
Run CHKDSK /R (drive letter): on your hard drive’s Windows partition.
The drive letter assigned to your Windows partition on your hard drive on the other computer will NOT be C – it will be the first drive letter that was available alphabetically.
E.g. if it is G
Start – Run – type: cmd (click on OK or press Enter) Type: CHKDSK /R G: (press Enter)
When CHKDSK has finished running, remove the AC power to the other computer, remove the hard drive from the other computer, when the AC adapter connection and battery have been removed, connect your drive to your computer, plug in the battery and / or the AC adapter, and try booting Windows normally from your computer.
You're doing it incorrectly. Win7 & Win8 are different. You have to delete ALL partitions, create one or more new ones, format, then install Win7. It can all be done using the Win7 disc.
You’re doing it incorrectly. Win7 & Win8 are different. You have to delete ALL partitions, create one or more new ones, format, then install Win7. It can all be done using the Win7 disc.
I suggest you try resetting the BIOS as follows: - make sure the only external devices you have connected are the keyboard & monitor, nothing else - unplug the power cord & then press/hold the case power button for at least 20 seconds - open the case & remove the memory stick from slot DRead more
I suggest you try resetting the BIOS as follows:
– make sure the only external devices you have connected are the keyboard & monitor, nothing else
– unplug the power cord & then press/hold the case power button for at least 20 seconds
– open the case & remove the memory stick from slot DDR3_2, leave the other in slot DDR3_1 & make 100% sure it’s fully seated. Press hard until you hear an audible clicking sound from each locking clip (lay the case on it’s side if necessary)
– move the Clear_CMOS jumper from the normal position to the clear position, wait a few seconds, then move it back again
– plug in the power cord & attempt to boot. If it works, use the keyboard to immediately entire the BIOS & correct ALL the settings.
If the above works, shutdown & insert the 2nd memory stick, once again making 100% sure it’s fully seated. Then try booting again.
The freezer routine "might" help get it going again - at least long enough to recover contents... Usually one does this with the drive in the open as it were; i.e. not in a case. However it might work equally with the drive in its current housing. Although I would be more inclined to remove the drivRead more
The freezer routine “might” help get it going again – at least long enough to recover contents…
Usually one does this with the drive in the open as it were; i.e. not in a case. However it might work equally with the drive in its current housing. Although I would be more inclined to remove the drive from its housing and then go the freezer route.
Either way: wrap the drive in paper towel, place in a sandwich type plastic bag. Seal the bag (the built in zipper of the fold over – whichever). Place in the freezer for about half an hour or so; long enough for it to get “quite cold/chilled” – but no longer than an hour…
Remove from freezer; open the bag; loosen the paper towel around the drive – but do not remove it; and let it all sit for say 10mins. Then remove from paper towel and ideally) via a usb adapter cable connect to a working computer and see it it powers up etc…? You could restore it to the case and test that way – but that takes time and you want to test the drive whilst it’s still “quite/rather cool”. Also using the usb adapter remove possible problems with the actual housing itself. It may be that the housing electronics and/or its actual usb port have developed a problem… Not unknown with these units…
If it does work OK it will almost certainly go down again; and you may/will have to repeat the freezer routine a few times – hopefully long enough to recover all content to alternative storage. Once you have recovered contents – replace the drive; don’t trust/rely on the one in question thereafter.
As you are considering acquiring a usb adapter – perhaps test the drive that way first, and if no joy then go the freezer path?
For the future… anything that is really important is best store on two different systems;. Either two hard drives – independent of each other and not installed in a computer; or a hard drive and couple of sets of DVD. Regularly check the duplicated storage systems too; and of course update regularly with new content?
Equally a small NAS is another approach; but even that should have a stand alone usb drive to which the NAS is backed up… A simple two drive Mirror system is ideal for home use; and they aren’t expensive. I have QNAPS TS210 which does fine; and there are more recent version of course than mine (now several years olde). My QNAPS is backed up to a separate usb drive, and that drive is never powered up except to back up the NAS. And again critical “stuff” – i.e. photos – are on DVD as well.
Don’t rely on flash drives for long term/serious storage; they have a shorter life than many realise…
Sorry, I missed that all 4 sticks of RAM are exactly the same - same brand, same spec, same number of chips, same color, etc, etc, etc. I can't see your board, I can only see what's on the Gigabyte webpage & in the manual that I downloaded. On the site the slots are blue & white, in the manuRead more
Sorry, I missed that all 4 sticks of RAM are exactly the same – same brand, same spec, same number of chips, same color, etc, etc, etc.
I can’t see your board, I can only see what’s on the Gigabyte webpage & in the manual that I downloaded. On the site the slots are blue & white, in the manual they’re yellow & red. But there’s a note under the RAM chart that says: “If two memory modules are to be installed, it is recommended that you install them in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets. They’re shown as the two closet to the CPU.
If none of them work, not even the originals, you must have done something wrong. When you worked with the RAM, did you unplug the power cord & lay the tower on it’s side so the you could exert enough pressure to fully snap the sticks into place? Are you hearing any beeps at start up? Do you normally hear a single beep at startup? If you used to hear a single beep but now hear none, RAM probably isn’t your problem. Since you messed with the heatsink/fan at the same time, maybe that’s the problem?
Need Acer Keyboard Driver
You don't need drivers.
You don’t need drivers.
See lessSolved How Can I Disable The Context Menu Key On My Keyboard?
Snapfiles hosts a lot of freeware programs. This one jumped out, but there are no user reviews. The sites editor has given it 3 1/2 out of 5 stars:http://www.snapfiles.com/screenshot...I've never had a problem with snapfiles downloads and they warn if the software comes bundled with crapware.Here'sRead more
http://www.snapfiles.com/screenshot…
I’ve never had a problem with snapfiles downloads and they warn if the software comes bundled with crapware.
Here’s a list using “keyboard” as search filtering for freeware titles:
http://www.snapfiles.com/downloadfi…
Solved Laptop Auto Hibernate When In The Middle of a Game?
Your CPU core temps are very high as are your GPU (Intel) onboard graphics, in fact I see one of your cores have throttled back due to these thermals. Your laptop is not a gaming rig and uses onboard graphics rather than a distinct graphics GPU and dedicated graphics memory. Most of your problem isRead more
Ultimately, getting a desktop gaming machine or even a gaming laptop would be the permanent fix but with a few cautions and adjustments you should be able to run your games at lower settings on your current machine.
You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.
Laptop Makes Screeching Noise, Then Shuts Off
Before turning it on, hold the on button for 2 minutes with the battery and AC adapter out, and plug the AC adapter into a wall outlet.
Before turning it on, hold the on button for 2 minutes with the battery and AC adapter out, and plug the AC adapter into a wall outlet.
See lessHP Compaq 510 – No Boot
Your subject title is NOT correct. Your laptop IS booting up, and the hard drive IS seen by the bios as being bootable and having an operating system installed on it, since you're seeing the Windows screens.Your problem is Windows is not working properly. ....You have data problems on your Windows pRead more
Your subject title is NOT correct.
Your laptop IS booting up, and the hard drive IS seen by the bios as being bootable and having an operating system installed on it, since you’re seeing the Windows screens.
Your problem is Windows is not working properly.
….
You have data problems on your Windows partition on your hard drive.
Either your hard drive is failing, or there’s nothing wrong with it but the data on it is corrupted.
Laptop hard drives never have a warranty period longer than 3 years, and they are more easily damaged than desktop hard drives, e.g. if you dropped the laptop.
Test your hard drive first.
Check your hard drive with the manufacturer’s diagnostics.
See the latter part of response 1 in this:
http://www.computing.net/windows95/…
If you don’t have a floppy drive, you can get a CD image diagnostic utility from most hard drive manufacturer’s web sites, but obviously you would need to make a burned CD, preferably a CD-R for best compatibility, on another computer if you need to.
E.g.
Seagate’s Seatools will test (almost) any brand of hard drive.
Do the long test.
http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.j…
The bootable Dos versions of SeaTools can be used even if Windows is not working properly.
If the hard drive itself tests okay, any data problems found can be fixed, one way or another.
(Only the Windows version of SeaTools can test a hard drive that’s inside an external enclosure – an external hard drive.)
….
If the hard drive itself is okay, try running CHKDSK /R
If you can run it in Safe mode , do that.
Start – Run – type: cmd (click on OK or press Enter)
Type: CHKDSK /R (press Enter)
Answer Yes to the question.
Restart the computer – CHKDSK / R will run at the beginning of Windows attempting to load normally the next time you boot the computer. Don’t press any keys while you see the text about CHKDSK wanting to run.
(When you don’t type a space and a drive letter along with a colon character after CHKDSK /R, it automatically checks the drive letter of the partition Windows is running from.)
If that’s successful, Windows will Restart automatically, then you see a message about CHKDSK, then if you’re fortunate Windows will load normally, fine.
…..
If that’s not successful (CHKDSK did not finish running or would not run) …..
If you have an XP CD or can borrow one, boot the computer from it, load the Recovery Console, then run CHKDSK /R.
NOTE that most HP and Compaq computers that originally had XP on them came with a “Windows XP Home (or Pro) Re-installation CD” or similar when they were new. That CD can be used the same way as a Windows CD, but probably only for the computer model it came with, when it’s used for re-installing Windows from scratch or running a Repair installation of Windows procedure.
You should be able to run CHKDSK from the Recovery Console of any full version XP CD (except, possibly, an XP Pro 64 bit CD – all other XP versions are 32 bit).
For more info,
see response 11 in this:
https://computing.net/answers/wi…
starting at, scroll down to “If that won’t work…..”
…..
If you don’t have and can’t borrow an XP CD, remove your hard drive (disconnect tjhe AC adapter’s connection and the battery BEFORE you do that) and connect it to another computer that has Windows running on it, such that the way it’s connected and/or the Boot Order settings or similar in the bios Setup of the other computer are NOT booting that computer from your hard drive.
Note that if you connect it internally to a desktop computer,
– you MUST disconnect the AC power to that computer whenever you are going to be plugging in or unplugging anything inside the case
– a laptop SATA drive has the same SATA data socket and SATA power socket as a desktop SATA drive – it’s easy to connect to a desktop SATA header with the same SATA data cable and SATA power connector you use for a desktop drive
– for a laptop IDE drive, the combo data/power connector header is smaller than the desktop IDE data only header on the hard drives. You can connect to a desktop IDE data cable and a desktop larger molex power connector if you use an inexpensive laptop IDE/power to desktop IDE/power gender adapter, available locally. The laptop drive is set to master by default if it has no tiny jumper on two of the four pins the laptop combo IDE/power connector does not connect to on one side – if there is another drive on the same IDE data cable, it’s jumper setting on back of the desktop IDE drive must be set to Slave, or just connect the laptop drive to a data cable by itself.
Run CHKDSK /R (drive letter): on your hard drive’s Windows partition.
The drive letter assigned to your Windows partition on your hard drive on the other computer will NOT be C – it will be the first drive letter that was available alphabetically.
E.g. if it is G
Start – Run – type: cmd (click on OK or press Enter)
Type: CHKDSK /R G: (press Enter)
When CHKDSK has finished running, remove the AC power to the other computer, remove the hard drive from the other computer, when the AC adapter connection and battery have been removed, connect your drive to your computer, plug in the battery and / or the AC adapter, and try booting Windows normally from your computer.
How Do I Enable Disk Controller In Bios
You're doing it incorrectly. Win7 & Win8 are different. You have to delete ALL partitions, create one or more new ones, format, then install Win7. It can all be done using the Win7 disc.
You’re doing it incorrectly. Win7 & Win8 are different. You have to delete ALL partitions, create one or more new ones, format, then install Win7. It can all be done using the Win7 disc.
See lessGigabyte G41M Combo Ram Problem Solution?
I suggest you try resetting the BIOS as follows: - make sure the only external devices you have connected are the keyboard & monitor, nothing else - unplug the power cord & then press/hold the case power button for at least 20 seconds - open the case & remove the memory stick from slot DRead more
I suggest you try resetting the BIOS as follows:
– make sure the only external devices you have connected are the keyboard & monitor, nothing else
– unplug the power cord & then press/hold the case power button for at least 20 seconds
– open the case & remove the memory stick from slot DDR3_2, leave the other in slot DDR3_1 & make 100% sure it’s fully seated. Press hard until you hear an audible clicking sound from each locking clip (lay the case on it’s side if necessary)
– move the Clear_CMOS jumper from the normal position to the clear position, wait a few seconds, then move it back again
– plug in the power cord & attempt to boot. If it works, use the keyboard to immediately entire the BIOS & correct ALL the settings.
If the above works, shutdown & insert the 2nd memory stick, once again making 100% sure it’s fully seated. Then try booting again.
See lessExternal WD My Book 1140 – Not Recognized?
The freezer routine "might" help get it going again - at least long enough to recover contents... Usually one does this with the drive in the open as it were; i.e. not in a case. However it might work equally with the drive in its current housing. Although I would be more inclined to remove the drivRead more
The freezer routine “might” help get it going again – at least long enough to recover contents…
Usually one does this with the drive in the open as it were; i.e. not in a case. However it might work equally with the drive in its current housing. Although I would be more inclined to remove the drive from its housing and then go the freezer route.
Either way: wrap the drive in paper towel, place in a sandwich type plastic bag. Seal the bag (the built in zipper of the fold over – whichever). Place in the freezer for about half an hour or so; long enough for it to get “quite cold/chilled” – but no longer than an hour…
Remove from freezer; open the bag; loosen the paper towel around the drive – but do not remove it; and let it all sit for say 10mins. Then remove from paper towel and ideally) via a usb adapter cable connect to a working computer and see it it powers up etc…? You could restore it to the case and test that way – but that takes time and you want to test the drive whilst it’s still “quite/rather cool”. Also using the usb adapter remove possible problems with the actual housing itself. It may be that the housing electronics and/or its actual usb port have developed a problem… Not unknown with these units…
If it does work OK it will almost certainly go down again; and you may/will have to repeat the freezer routine a few times – hopefully long enough to recover all content to alternative storage. Once you have recovered contents – replace the drive; don’t trust/rely on the one in question thereafter.
As you are considering acquiring a usb adapter – perhaps test the drive that way first, and if no joy then go the freezer path?
For the future… anything that is really important is best store on two different systems;. Either two hard drives – independent of each other and not installed in a computer; or a hard drive and couple of sets of DVD. Regularly check the duplicated storage systems too; and of course update regularly with new content?
Equally a small NAS is another approach; but even that should have a stand alone usb drive to which the NAS is backed up… A simple two drive Mirror system is ideal for home use; and they aren’t expensive. I have QNAPS TS210 which does fine; and there are more recent version of course than mine (now several years olde). My QNAPS is backed up to a separate usb drive, and that drive is never powered up except to back up the NAS. And again critical “stuff” – i.e. photos – are on DVD as well.
Don’t rely on flash drives for long term/serious storage; they have a shorter life than many realise…
See lessDual Channel Ram Issue
Sorry, I missed that all 4 sticks of RAM are exactly the same - same brand, same spec, same number of chips, same color, etc, etc, etc. I can't see your board, I can only see what's on the Gigabyte webpage & in the manual that I downloaded. On the site the slots are blue & white, in the manuRead more
Sorry, I missed that all 4 sticks of RAM are exactly the same – same brand, same spec, same number of chips, same color, etc, etc, etc.
I can’t see your board, I can only see what’s on the Gigabyte webpage & in the manual that I downloaded. On the site the slots are blue & white, in the manual they’re yellow & red. But there’s a note under the RAM chart that says: “If two memory modules are to be installed, it is recommended that you install them in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets. They’re shown as the two closet to the CPU.
If none of them work, not even the originals, you must have done something wrong. When you worked with the RAM, did you unplug the power cord & lay the tower on it’s side so the you could exert enough pressure to fully snap the sticks into place? Are you hearing any beeps at start up? Do you normally hear a single beep at startup? If you used to hear a single beep but now hear none, RAM probably isn’t your problem. Since you messed with the heatsink/fan at the same time, maybe that’s the problem?
See lessCPU Fan Replacement For Foxconn PVA080G12Q
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...