1. Fixed it thanks. I found the answer in a previous posting CP1

    Fixed it thanks. I found the answer in a previous posting CP1 See less

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  2. As you know, when a hard drive does not show up in the BIOS, it generally is the hard drive or the power or drive (signal) cable. Since you have verified the drive and the cable, if you can verify that the proper voltages are going to the drive, then the problem ("my dear Watson") must be in the motRead more

    As you know, when a hard drive does not show up in the BIOS, it generally is the hard drive or the power or drive (signal) cable. Since you have verified the drive and the cable, if you can verify that the proper voltages are going to the drive, then the problem (“my dear Watson”) must be in the motherboard or the connection of the cable to the motherboard (the socket for this cable). You are left using process of elimination and when you eliminate all other possibilities, then you are left with the answer, however unlikely. It is even less likely to be the BIOS since (as you said), you otherwise appear to have full access to it.
    Since the drive works and you swapped out everything else between there and the motherboard, and tried another drive anyway, then it can only be at or in (on?) the motherboard itself. There really is nothing else. Simplest would be a simple break in a poor solder joint where the socket is attached to the motherboard. That, is at least repairable for someone who has experience soldering on circuit boards. Use a magnifying glass to examine these joints and visible components on the motherboard, power board (if separate), and any other similar connections.
    Edit (added):
    Bad joints:
    http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/xS…
    Video that might help (I did not watch it myself though):
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dG0…

    You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.

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  3. found the answer it is the subtitles button a little screen with writing on it on the TV controlThanks all for your help

    found the answer it is the subtitles button a little screen with writing on it on the TV control

    Thanks all for your help

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  4. It's format c:/s and not format c:\s. But that won't work unless you boot from a 98 or ME bootdisk AND your XP is on a fat32 and not an NTFS partition.Why can't you boot from the cdrom?The mantra of the aging hippie--"Power to the government, right on"

    It’s format c:/s and not format c:\s. But that won’t work unless you boot from a 98 or ME bootdisk AND your XP is on a fat32 and not an NTFS partition.

    Why can’t you boot from the cdrom?

    The mantra of the aging hippie–“Power to the government, right on”

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  5. Your SSD has your system volume (your OS) on it but no boot volume, your Disk 4 (G) has no system volume but does have your boot volume so both of these needs to be 'Bootable' in your BIOS, none of the other drives needs to be bootable so you can try to see if turning that off makes any difference.Read more

    Your SSD has your system volume (your OS) on it but no boot volume, your Disk 4 (G) has no system volume but does have your boot volume so both of these needs to be ‘Bootable’ in your BIOS, none of the other drives needs to be bootable so you can try to see if turning that off makes any difference. While not ideal (your hard drive was plugged in while installing your OS so the boot manager ended up on a different drive than the SSD that your OS is on), it is workable as long as you know that you need both drives to be able to boot. If at any time you need to, or decide to, you can unplug all hard drives and do a start up repair on just the SSD drive.
    I see nothing more obvious that could be causing the problem, though you may get some more information by running Seatools test on each of the drives that are the problem ones to see if there are any problems with the drives (but being on two drives, that seems unlikely).
    You also may want to make sure that all SATA cables are plugged in fully and are at least the full speed of the drives (SATA II/SATA III).

    You have to be a little bit crazy to keep you from going insane.

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  6. rem set col.heads=1,2,3,4,5,etc or whatever you want, or nothingECHO.col.heads>file2.csvMORE +3 file1.csv>>file2.csvmight work, IF your csv file is not unicoded, and IF your line-breaks are recognized by MORE. If your app REALLY has to have column heads, you can just echo them to the file bRead more

    rem set col.heads=1,2,3,4,5,etc or whatever you want, or nothing
    ECHO.col.heads>file2.csv
    MORE +3 file1.csv>>file2.csv

    might work, IF your csv file is not unicoded, and IF your line-breaks are recognized by MORE. If your app REALLY has to have column heads, you can just echo them to the file before the MORE statement. You should take a look at your csv file to see if it’s Unicode, and what line-breaks it uses. I recommend EDIT /70 to examine the file because it shows Unicode interstices as well as line-break char.s
    Another way is to use either FIND or FINDSTR with line numbers and then exclude those line numbers from your output. f/e: FIND /N /V “” file.csv|FIND /V “[3]”
    would exclude line 3 from output. If “[3]” occurs in the base-file stream, then use : FIND /N /V “” file.csv|FINDSTR “^\[3\]”
    which will limit [3] to the beginning of the line and not mid-stream.

    message edited by nbrane

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  7. really easy to do:This is an example, add bits of it to urs.@echo offset INV=type ur password below:homeclsecho %INV%set /p "input=plz enter here>"if %input%==ENTERURPASSWORDHERE goto hiIf NOT %input%==ENTERURPASSWORDHERE set INV=INCORRECT && goto home:hi color aclsecho u are now logged iRead more

    really easy to do:
    This is an example, add bits of it to urs.

    @echo off
    set INV=type ur password below
    :home
    cls
    echo %INV%
    set /p “input=plz enter here>”
    if %input%==ENTERURPASSWORDHERE goto hi
    If NOT %input%==ENTERURPASSWORDHERE set INV=INCORRECT && goto home
    :hi
    color a
    cls
    echo u are now logged in
    Pause>nul

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  8. Yes, Just connecting the voltmeter leads to the battery will give a no-load response but that's good enough for those batteries. Just test them all and whichever gives the highest reading will be the best one. They usually work down to about 1 volt but look for one that's at least 2.5 volts if you dRead more

    Yes, Just connecting the voltmeter leads to the battery will give a no-load response but that’s good enough for those batteries. Just test them all and whichever gives the highest reading will be the best one. They usually work down to about 1 volt but look for one that’s at least 2.5 volts if you don’t want to replace it again in a month or so.

    If your meter has setting for battery testing I believe they provide a small load but I’ve always used the DC voltmeter setting and a range for whatever is appropriate for a 3 volt battery.

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  9. I found this online:downloadhttp://downloads.tomsguide.com/Disn...http://games.disney.com/ghosts-of-m...play onlinehttp://gamesdreams.com/showthread.p...Don C

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  10. A generic Microsoft driver for all external card readers is built in to Windows (XP or later), so the card reader manufacturers don't supply drivers as they are not required.I have never had to install a driver for any of the various card readers I've owned as they are plug & play - - Windows 7Read more

    A generic Microsoft driver for all external card readers is built in to Windows (XP or later), so the card reader manufacturers don’t supply drivers as they are not required.

    I have never had to install a driver for any of the various card readers I’ve owned as they are plug & play – – Windows 7 should install the driver automatically when you plug it in to a USB port.

    See this thread: https://computing.net/answers/ha…

    Also, if you read the buyer reviews of this card reader on Amazon it does not look good. Several buyers said it does not work properly, and in some cases it doesn’t work at all:

    https://www.amazon.com/51-IN-1-All-…

    Therefore I suggest you buy a quality card reader with a well-known brand name and dump that one in the bin.

    I have a plug & play Transcend card reader which works on Windows 7 and it’s very reliable:

    https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_…

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