“Is there another way to update to the latest Android version ?”

No. Not without rooting the device (it’s simply too old):

http://www.tomsguide.com/forum/id-1…

https://www.droidword.com/2016/02/0…

Remember, if you’re not familiar with doing any of this you could easily brick the unit. Also, upgrading beyond the manufacturers’ recommendations could leave you with a buggy and/or slow unit.

“Channeling the spirit of jboy…”

message edited by T-R-A

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If your computer is running fine, then you should not worry.

Just create a blank .txt file such as blank.txt and rename it to config.nt and put it in Windows\System32 directory for the love of it.

Using the same method, you can also create autoexec.nt file.

Please refer to http://support.microsoft.com/kb/324767 for a detailed explanation of how you should create the files ( for XP systems ).

Also see this: http://forums.techarena.in/vista-he…

CoolGuy

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Ok, your troubleshooting showed what I expected. Your wired connection(s) performs well regardless of load on your LAN. Your wireless doesn’t perform quite so well. With a bigger load on the LAN, the less well wireless performs. This is expected.

One thing to remember when it comes to networking is that wireless will never perform as well as wired. So if you’re an avid gamer (I am) you will want whatever device you’re gaming on to be physically connected to the network with a network cable (as versus wireless) whenever possible. This will improve performance and reduce latency and lag.

I didn’t think to ask what type of wireless devices you’re running, and how many of them. I would recommend you have at the very least a Wireless N device. If possible, dual radio (2.4 and 5.0 GHz) If you’re running an older device, then buy yourself at least one, and perhaps two, depending on budget and the size of your home, dual radio “N” access points and add them to your network. If you presently only have a single wireless device, then all wireless clients are connecting to it and that will decrease performance. Adding one or two more devices would reduce overall load on any single device and help balance the wireless load as well.

Lets say you have a typical two floor, bungalow with approx. 1000 sq ft on the main floor. Lets also assume your internet and router, are in one end of the main floor of your home. If you buy two AP’s (access points) and both are dual radio “N” devices, I would put one in the middle of the basement, and the other at the far end of the main floor. This would provide better coverage of your home. It would also provide stronger signal to users in the basement or far end of the house opposite the router. It would spread clients over the 3 wireless devices as well.

If possible, you would want to connect them to your router via a network cable but if that’s not at all possible, get the kind that allow you to extend your wireless network. Wired would again be much better because network load would aggregate on extendable devices.

With adequate coverage using recently made wireless access points connected to your router (or 1 Gig switch) with wired connections you would get the best possible performance from your wireless LAN.

It matters not how straight the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am the master of my fate;
I am the captain of my soul.

***William Henley***

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Actually, motherboard stand-offs have 4 variants which are the most common as far as i know. These variants differ in both stand-off size, meaning there is more or less room for the inner thread that is used and another difference can be the type of thread (6-32 or M3) that is used for the inner thread. The outer thread that is used should always be the same (6-32). The most commonly used length for a stand-off is 6.4 mm (as dictated by the current ATX form factor standard).

The difference in inner thread used (6-32 or M3), is the same difference as the thread that can be used for fitting both 3.5″ harddrives and 5.25″ bay devices (opticals mostly), where the thread on 6-32 screws for 3.5″ mounts are slightly bigger and more crude so to say and M3 is slightly smaller and has a ‘finer’ thread.

The stand-offs you are linking to are the ones most commonly used nowadays.

Seeing as they aren’t that costly and come in a 50-pack the solution should be quite simple. When they arrive check the type of inner thread that is used.
(You can see the difference with your eyes otherwise just gently try and fit a 6-32 screw in there and if that doesn’t run in it uses an M3 screw with the ‘finer’ thread).
If it turns out to be different from all the other ones you used in your build, you could consider replacing all of them so they’re all the same (if it matters to you and you’re going for a clean build or a casemod or so….)

NB:
The longer stand-offs i am talking about were seldomly supplied by manufacturers of non-standard computer cases or sometimes used by OEMs like Packard Bell or Medion.
Also, here’s a Wiki article that shows the difference between 6-32 and M3 thread: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comput…

Good luck!

message edited by nesspj

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