169.254.129.188 is not some random IP address. It is a default IP address allocated by Windows when it cannot find a DHCP server. That means your router.
Check your connections to your router. Reset it to defaults and reboot. and check ipconfig again.

Until you get a valid IP address in the Default Gateway you are never going to be able to connect to your router.

Some USB ports on your PC are USB 2.0, but others are USB 3.0 which has a faster transfer rate.
Whenever you plug a USB 3.0 device into a USB 2.0 port you will see that message.

Plug your USB 3.0 device into a USB 3.0 port (USB 3.0 ports have a blue divider).

The USB 3.0 port will probably be on the rear panel where the power cable plugs in.
Look for one with a blue divider.

Inverter / Home UPS ( Eco Model )
PICI6F676 based design
http://www.acedigital.co.in/pici6F6…

Excerpts:

Specifications

Jumper Selections for :- Inv / UPS Mode, Normal /High charging, Batt. Voltage boost.

Does yours have those options ?

Does your Uncle’s inverter have similar options ?

……

“with Exide 100ah battery”
sounds like you’re using a car (vehicle) battery, which has a much higher ah rating than a typical pre-packaged UPS meant for a computer system has.

In any case, it would take a lot longer to re-charge a battery with that capacity to it’s full capacity after it has been deeply discharged than it would for a battery found in a typical pre-packaged UPS meant for a computer system, and it’s going to require current from whatever is charging it during that time.

Typical vehicle batteries aren’t designed to stand up to being deeply discharged. If you are going to use a high capacity battery, you should use one that IS designed to stand up to being deeply discharged without being damaged, e.g. one meant for use with an electric boat motor, or meant for use as a second battery for a recreational vehicle.

“I had doubt on the battery”

How old is it ?

Batteries can develop internal shorts, caused by conductive crap that has accumulated under the plates inside the battery that is touching the bottom of the plates (if you move the battery or tilt it from horizontal, or if the vehicle it’s in physically jars the battery while moving, that crap may not cause proplems sometimes, cause problems other times), or by physical damage inside the battery otherwise, e.g. cracking of the plates, and that’s more likely the older the battery is, the more physical jarring it’s been exposed to.

Symptoms I’ve seen of an internally shorted vehicle battery.

When you use the battery with a vehicle, the greatest amount of current is drawn from the battery while you are starting the vehicle.

One battery produced electrical arcing sounds at the battery that came from within the battery while that large amount of current was being drawn from it, but made no sounds after the vehicle was running.

The battery may get HOT rather than just warm when it is being charged.

The (lead acid) battery may not read 12.6 volts after it has been charged and has sat for a while with no load on it – it has a lower voltage.

Or – the battery may NOT read 12.6 volts immeditely after or a a short time after shutting off the engine – it has a lower voltage.

When there’s a situation that has discharged the battery, the voltage reading of the battery may drop a lot faster than it does for a good battery. E.g. someone left a car door open overnight, which resulted in the interior light staying on all that time. The voltage was 10.x volts the next morning, rather than higher than that.

My most recent experioence –
When the vehicle is running, the voltage reading is a lot lower than it should be, when there’s nothing wrong with the charging system, in comparison to the same vehicle with a battery that has nothing wrong with it.
When I replaced the ~ 6 year old battery with a new one, the voltage reading while the same vehicle was running was up to 2 volts higher right after having started the vehicle, and 1 volt or more higher after that.
The car had been misbehaving because the voltage while the car was running was lower than the minimum required for the car’s main control circuit board at the circuit board.

See 4-15 of the manual here – it can be saved:
http://forums.toshiba.com/tshb/atta…
The webcam should start with Windows if it hasn’t been disabled.

A driver problem is possible. See if webcam drivers are listed here (if USA):
http://support.toshiba.com/drivers
You will probably need the additional characters after the main L350D number.

Always pop back and let us know the outcome – thanks

message edited by Derek

Not exactly sure if you really need the new power supply, though it could very possibly be the cause. Look into your BIOS set up and see of the voltages reported are withing 5% of their nominal values (5V= 5Volts +/- 5%, etc.). If it is not, then definitely replace it.
AS far as the voltages, the voltage out of your wall is nominally 220Volts regardless what the power supply is marked. One company chose to mark their product that it would function up to a maximum of 230 Volts while the other company decided to report that their power supply was intended to operate at the nominal voltage of 220Volts as opposed to North America’s 120/110Volts. Either the 220V or the 230V will work the same for you. It is more important to get a quality product with the same ratings or higher than your original. Look for power supplies that are:
A quality name brand
Has 80% certified efficiency rating or better.
Has active PFC.
Has a single 12 Volt rail rather than multiple ones.
Has enough power to run your system and margin to spare for upgrades like a better video card.
Look at Amperage, particularly on the 12 Volt rail since this can be more important than overall wattage in powering high draw components than overall wattage (which can be faked by pushing up the amperage on the 5V & 3.3V rails since this is easier, cheaper, but useless to you).
Has high consumer recommendations on online sites.