1. It would help to know which program you're using to check your GPU temp. If you're not using GPUZ, give it a try: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/The GT 620 isn't much of a gaming card, it's considered a HTPC card. It's actually a rebranded GT 430. Does it have a fan or is it fanless? Obviously fanRead more

    It would help to know which program you’re using to check your GPU temp. If you’re not using GPUZ, give it a try: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/

    The GT 620 isn’t much of a gaming card, it’s considered a HTPC card. It’s actually a rebranded GT 430. Does it have a fan or is it fanless? Obviously fanless cards will run hotter. Is the power supply mounted at the top or bottom of your case? Bottom mounted usually adds heat to the GPU. Top mount helps cool the case. And what about case cooling? Is there a large exhaust fan in the rear?

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  2. Aside from upgrading video card, power supply, and adding memory when lacking, I have found that the upgrade path part by part does not work out well for the system or the budget. You are always choosing items that are compatible with outdated existing hardware so they are not the optimal choices anRead more

    Aside from upgrading video card, power supply, and adding memory when lacking, I have found that the upgrade path part by part does not work out well for the system or the budget. You are always choosing items that are compatible with outdated existing hardware so they are not the optimal choices and then when you have the cash for the final ‘change the rest of the guts’ (like now), nothing is cutting edge and you have to eliminate a lot of choices to be compatible all over again with what you already sunk in money for and do not want to throw away. The best way to get the best performance for your budget is to start with a clean sheet of paper and choose all of your components with the performance in mind and the available funds. If you have to cheap out at all then make sure that your core components are up to speed and either reuse the graphics card, get less memory, or something equally easy to replace/upgrade later when you can afford it. You do not have to have the most expensive item either, there is always the slightly slower processor or the one generation behind the that will be more affordable. The motherboards should be nether the fully loaded most expensive nor the cheapest but something above the middle of the road or the lower of the gaming boards which has enough features to keep you happy for the long run. Plan on getting an SSD drive for the operating system and programs/games (minimum 120GB but 240GB is better) and a hard drive for your storage drive and make sure you relocate your Documents, Pictures, Music, and other default folders to that drive so you do not fill up your C drive.
    The case needs to be quality, have enough space for your needs, long enough for a graphics card upgrade, roomy enough to deal with the heat until it is sucked out, have reasonable cooling potential (more on the below), and and lastly, looks good.
    I have found that the secret to good cooling is to forget about what is included with the case and choose your fan(s) for yourself. I purchase a rear exhaust fan that is dual ball bearing with a high CFM and low Db rating as this is the really only important fan you will need and less air means less cooling but a noisy fan means an annoying machine. IF you get a case with the bottom mounted power supply, are running a hot CPU and graphics card, you may want to add a top secondary exhaust fan but you can wait to see if you need it until later. When you have two, three of more drives blocking some of the air from getting to your graphics card, you can opt for a front intake fan low in the front. This fan needs to be quiet but not needed to be high CFM and actually should not be because you want a negative pressure to be caused by the exhaust fan sucking the cool air in where it is needed. NEVER use a side fan. EVER. Side fans disrupt the air flow over components and causes little eddies in the flow causing stagnant pockets of air that overheat components.

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  3. All SSD drives will be SATA. However, looking at your Motherboard specs it is an old one and only appears to support SATA 1. SSD drives will work on SATA 1 but only at SATA 1 speeds but still faster than a magnetic drive. Personalty I wouldn't bother upgrading this Motherboard. I would save my moneyRead more

    All SSD drives will be SATA.
    However, looking at your Motherboard specs it is an old one and only appears to support SATA 1. SSD drives will work on SATA 1 but only at SATA 1 speeds but still faster than a magnetic drive.

    Personalty I wouldn’t bother upgrading this Motherboard. I would save my money and get something more modern that will enable you to run Windows 7/8 which this one wont.

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  4. Four in six months is crazy. From what you've described, I would have a professional electrician check the current to your house or apartment. Too little can do as much damage as too much. Surge protectors are not foolproof either.

    Four in six months is crazy. From what you’ve described, I would have a professional electrician check the current to your house or apartment. Too little can do as much damage as too much. Surge protectors are not foolproof either.

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  5. You replaced the power supply 3 months ago and just replaced it again or you replaced it once 3 months ago and are still using that one? If it is the power button you can open the case and follow the 2 wires that go from the button to the motherboard. Then remove that 2-wire connection from the mothRead more

    You replaced the power supply 3 months ago and just replaced it again or you replaced it once 3 months ago and are still using that one?
    If it is the power button you can open the case and follow the 2 wires that go from the button to the motherboard. Then remove that 2-wire connection from the motherboard pins. Then with the power cord attached as with normal operation, take something like a metal screwdriver and carefully touch those 2 pins together for a second. If the PC starts up then likely the power button is the problem. If not, it’s something else.

    If it doesn’t start up, try temporarily removing all the cards except video and disconnect all the drives. Then try starting it again. If it starts up then one of the removed or disconnected items is at fault.

    If it still doesn’t work you’re pretty much left with the power supply or motherboard. Often a power supply will fail and ruin the motherboard as well. If you’re using a brand new power supply then the motherboard is likely bad. If you’re still using the one you replaced 3 months ago then it could be the power supply, motherboard or both that are bad.

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  6. After searching for hours & trying numerous different fixes..... this worked like a charm for me: 1. Unplug everything from the computer. 2. Make sure to leave the power cord plugged into the wall and computer. 3.Using a hairdryer,blow heat on the flashing green light for two to three minutes. TRead more

    After searching for hours & trying numerous different fixes…..
    this worked like a charm for me:
    1. Unplug everything from the computer.
    2. Make sure to leave the power cord plugged into the wall and computer.
    3.Using a hairdryer,blow heat on the flashing green light for two to three minutes. The flashing green light should turn to a steady green.
    4. Turn on computer.

    Good luck & i hope this works for you! Let me know if this works!

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  7. If you can run in the BIOS for as long as you want but you can't boot in Windows it is because your hardware is too different. What type of Windows installation do you have? If Windows 7 originally came pre-installed on an OEM computer like HP, emachines, etc., then you may not get Windows to run onRead more

    If you can run in the BIOS for as long as you want but you can’t boot in Windows it is because your hardware is too different.
    What type of Windows installation do you have? If Windows 7 originally came pre-installed on an OEM computer like HP, emachines, etc., then you may not get Windows to run on the new motherboard.

    That type of Windows license is called an SLP and is limited to the original hardware.

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  8. Your best chance is to see if the computer manufacturer supplies some way of reversing the BIOS flash.I take it you had good reason to do this because it should only be done (with utmost care) to cure a listed specific issue or when fitting a different CPU. BIOS updates are not like other updates anRead more

    Your best chance is to see if the computer manufacturer supplies some way of reversing the BIOS flash.

    I take it you had good reason to do this because it should only be done (with utmost care) to cure a listed specific issue or when fitting a different CPU. BIOS updates are not like other updates and always carry the risk of bricking the motherboard.

    EDIT:
    You can look through this lot I guess, but I didn’t find anything too promising that appeared to produce a fix:
    https://www.google.co.uk/#q=Lenovo+…

    I also found this very general Lenovo discussion about restoring a Phoenix BIOS flash:
    https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo…
    You would obviously have to get the download onto a flash drive using another computer.

    Always pop back and let us know the outcome – thanks

    message edited by Derek

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  9. It may not be able to read a drive of that size, check the manual.

    It may not be able to read a drive of that size, check the manual.

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